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There's more to picture framing than meets the eye
The main function of a picture frame is to provide a focus for an artwork or picture. In the case of works on paper, and similar fragile materials, it should also provide a method of conservation. Importantly it can also be a beautiful piece of furniture.
These days, there are literally thousands of framing mouldings available, so it can be a difficult job finding the best one for the job. There are any number of frames that could suit any one picture. To a large extent the choice is extremely subjective. In the same way that it would be unfair to say to an architect ‘You’re the expert-design me a house’ it would be equally unfair to say to the framer ‘You’re the framer so pick the perfect frame for my picture’. What is ideal for one person may look awful to another person.
A lot of time can be saved if the customer gives some thought in advance to the approach they want the framer to take in framing their picture. For example do they want it to be framed in a modern or traditional style, what environment will it be hung in? I.e. with a room full of antiques or in a modern apartment decorated in a minimal style. If it’s a gift for another person it is important to take their taste into consideration. Gold and silver frames tend to look more formal than timber frames and will often work well in a formal room . A shabby-chic or recycled frame could look totally out of place in the same environment. All these factors have to be considered. Then, most importantly the style of the frame must suit the style of the picture being framed.
The final test for a successful picture frame, is does it draw your focus into the Subject Matter. (Obviously Mirrors are a different matter). It doesn’t matter how technically brilliant or complex the framing is, if it doesn’t achieve this then it’s a dud! A great piece of decoration maybe, but not good picture framing.
What is meant by conservation framing?
As we pointed out at the beginning one of the main functions of a picture frame is to preserve the picture being framed, so that in 2 or 200 years time it is till in good condition. This is achieved by using acid-free materials. Acid free mat board and acid free backing such as acid free foam core are imperative to this end.
Non acid-free mat board (very commonly used before the 1990’s) will cause a darkening of the artwork causing ‘acid burn’. Generally, if the bevel of the mat board is yellow/brown then it is not acid free.
Improper backing can cause just as much damage. Timber, MDF and cardboard backing also contains acid which will eventually work its way through the paper and cause discoloration and damage.
If you have pictures on the wall framed more than a few years ago check for timber backings and non acid free mat boards. You should replace these with acid free materials if you want the art work to survive much longer.
Mat boards
The main purpose of a mat board is to prevent the glass from coming into contact with the picture being framed. This is important as the difference between the outside temperature and the inside temperature of the frame often causes moisture to build up behind the glass. This will lead to mould and foxing of the paper or, even worse with photos they will meld onto the glass and be lost forever.
The secondary function of mat boards is more aesthetic. Coloured mats or double mats can be used to provide emphasis for certain colours or outlines in the picture.
For example a black lino cut can look quite dramatic with a white mat board and a black highlight.
You will notice that artists will often use simple white mat boards when showing their works in an exhibition. A coloured or patterned mat can often intrude on the art work.
Mat Dimensions: Traditionally the bottom margin on the mat boards have always been cut thicker than the other three sides. This is because there is often an optical illusion when the mat board is cut even all round, that the bottom appears to be narrower than the other three sides.
In more recent times the trend has been for cutting mat boards the same width all round. To many people’s eye it is a more modern look. Certainly many people think square images look best matted in this style.
Sometimes landscapes also look better this way as a larger bottom will ‘square’ up the picture loosing it’s Landscape look.
Portraits, often look better with a bigger mat on the bottom . Most traditional and antique style pictures look better with a bigger bottom as that is how we are used to seeing them.
The dimensions chosen for mat boards is very much up to individual tastes and individual pictures. The only rule of thumb is that the mat board should be wider or (on the odd occasion thinner) than the width of the frame. Little pictures with very large mat boards can sometimes look great. In the same way a thin mat board can create a naive feel if that suites the artwork.
At the end of the day once you understand the rules they can be broken quite effectively.
Framing original artworks
It is important that original art-works on paper such as etchings, screen prints, etc are framed correctly or they will loose their value. The condition that an original artwork leaves the artists hands is how it should be framed. For example if the paper is out of shape (a common problem with water colours) that is how it should be framed. Warts and all. It is not the framers job to tamper with the art work.
An etching valued at $10,000 flattened by being glued down becomes basically worthless.
Original artworks on paper should always be under glazing. If they are not matted then they should be boxed by some type of spacer, so that the glass doesn’t touch the artwork.
Because paper is sensitive to heat and humidity (Australia’s climate and old terraces with damp walls don’t help), artworks will often buckle and go out of shape. Large art galleries have a controlled environment to prevent this from happening . There is not much you can do about this at home. The best way to attach artwork into the frame is for it to be hinged to the mat or backing at the top with acid-free tape allowing the paper to expand and contract in relative freedom, behind the mat board. All methods aimed at keeping the paper flat should be avoided as in the end it will only damage the artwork.
Dry mounting
Most photos and posters look best if they are dry mounted. I.e. the picture is stuck down to the backing. This prevents the picture from buckling and looks a lot smarter under glass. If the posters or photos are particularly valuable then they shouldn’t be dry mounted as they will loose their value.
Non reflective glass & acrylic
For most purposes we recommend normal picture framing glass be used. Some people have a genuine problem with the reflections they see in normal glass. Non reflective glass can help with this problem. However it costs more than normal glass and can deaden the image being framed. Non-reflective glass is made from normal glass which has been etched by acids to break the light rays rather than reflect them.
From a conservation perspective, non reflective glass is not as good as normal glazing.
On the other hand picture framing acrylic is far superior to glass although it is also more expensive. It is designed specifically for conservation framing. Top grade acrylic offers better filtration to ultraviolet light rays, the main cause of fading . For any valuable artworks, perspex or museum glass makes sense.
Stretching & framing canvas
Oil and acrylic paintings on canvas are usually stretched onto a stretcher or strainer before framing. With the odd exception, they are not usually framed with mat boards and glass.
Instead of a mat board, some type of timber or linen slip can be used inside the frame to create the same space around the artwork. It is traditional to use much larger frames around canvas works than you would around works on paper with a mat board.
Indigenous paintings on canvas look best just put on to a stretcher with no frame.
In most cases any frame can look too ’European’.
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In depth.
What is framing?
What is mounting?
Glass?
Why frame it?
Glossary
Proportions.
Colour Choice.
Hanging.
If you are having too much trouble getting your picture to hang straight on the wall, use more than one hook,
Round frames.
Most circular frames are pre-made over seas. If you want something custom made, you will be probably spending a lot of money. While the procedure can be slow and costly, the results can be spectacular.
Mirrors.
Mirrors can effectively double the visual size of a room. Be they plain, beveled or convex, mirrors can lift a space and bring in extra light, making anywhere seem a little more open and inviting.
Flaunt it.
Don't put family heir looms under the bed or into storage. Frame them up well and hang them in a prominent position. They can make an interesting talking piece and are often more interesting to look at than other commercially available works.
Budget for it.
Renovators and re decorators often overlook picture framing in their costings, or leave it till last when all the money has been spent. Set aside some funds early on for the framing, as it's the thing that will be on top, and more visible than that re-plastered wall and new coat of paint anyway.
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